Immerse in Urban Swimming in Zürich
It's a sunny Sunday morning, and as I step into Zürich's Arboretum Enge park, the vibrant energy of the city reveals itself in a sea of sun-kissed skin. Nestled among the grand historical buildings that line the city, this park is adorned with men and women basking in the warmth, donning their swimwear and ready to take a dip in the inviting waters.
Switzerland has always intrigued me with its breathtaking landscapes, flawless infrastructure, and progressive mindset. However, I found myself yearning for a glimpse of its more liberated side, hoping to discover a place that seamlessly blends tradition with a dash of spontaneity.
But Zürich surprised me. As I wander through the park, it becomes evident that the city embraces a unique concept of urban swimming. Escaping the confines of traditional swimming pools, Zürich encourages its residents to immerse themselves in nature by offering countless opportunities for open-air swims in its pristine lakes and rivers.
As I soak in this captivating scene, an undeniable truth dawns upon me - Zürich is not just a disciplined metropolis but a city that knows how to let its hair down, all while maintaining a deep respect for its heritage. It's a place where urbanity seamlessly merges with nature, offering its inhabitants and visitors a chance to revel in the best of both worlds.
So, if you find yourself in Zürich, take a break from typical tourist attractions and venture into the waters. Embrace the spirit of urban swimming, find respite in the crystalline lakes, and let Zürich showcase its true colors in the most refreshing way possible.
Despite the tranquility and beauty surrounding me, I am astonished to witness lively youngsters chatting each other up and toasting with icy beverages before lunchtime. Meanwhile, couples find solace on soft beach towels, and groups of friends with baskets in tow claim their ideal picnic spots. As the park's immaculate emerald grass gently slopes toward the shores of Lake Zürich, eager sun-seekers and children seek respite from the heat alongside graceful ducks and elegant swans in the refreshing, glassy-green water. Moreover, the breathtaking horizon is adorned with sleek yachts and boats, harmoniously contrasting against the snow-capped Alps looming in the distance, offering a final glimpse of winter's charm.
For a significant portion of Zürich's diverse global landschaft, their preferred method of spending a pleasant day includes visiting one of the active 18 city lidos. I find myself parting with 7 Swiss francs (£5.50) to gain entry into Seebad Enge, a top choice amongst chic individuals in their thirties. The initial impression leaves one puzzled as the petite pontoon on the lake allows for minimum room, let alone to indulge in the sun. The real charm of the Seebad Enge, however, lies in the socializing, exhibiting fresh fashion trends and body ink, indulging in a humble Mediterranean brunch from the café, and some harmless romantic pursuits.
Date back to 1837, Zürich is known for its rich tradition in the bathing culture. It's been layering history since the inauguration of the first picturesque lido, a stunning wooden cloister in the art nouveau style dangling over the Limmat, one of the city's dual rivers. Even today, the Frauenbadi remains a unique space for women, a tradition breakingly initiated back in the day. With time, a variety of open-air swimming hubs have emerged catering to an array of demographics. From dedicated health enthusiasts, wellness devotees, casual beachgoers, and even to folks who appreciate a laid-back beat with a side cocktail during the afternoon.
The expansion continues unabated. Just this morning, I luxuriated for several peaceful hours at the freshly minted Thermalbad & Spa (thermalbad-zuerich.ch), a sophisticated public retreat that seamlessly merges with the century-old stone vaults of an ingeniously repurposed ex-brewery. This spa is now enriched by one of Zürich's pair of hot springs. But the relaxation doesn't stop at the spa. For those who seek the thrill of games and luxury accommodations after a tranquil day, look no further than the multitude of Switzerland Casino hotels at top-hotels-switzerland.com . These hotels offer not only top-notch amenities but also the fun and excitement of in-house casinos. Back to our peaceful escape, the prescribed progression through an array of pools, steam-filled chambers, and cascades provides a tranquil experience, while the Turkish bath-inspired hydro-massage offers a rejuvenating sensation. However, the crowning jewel of the establishment is undoubtedly the breathtaking rooftop infinity pool, offering panoramic vistas of the city's whimsically tapering towers and chic suburban slopes nestled on the hillside. The forthcoming B2 boutique hotel will augment the spa's offerings from the coming spring.
Experience The Evening Enchantment
Zürich transforms into a nocturnal wonderland as its lidos illuminate the night with their vibrant energy, providing a unique and delightful nightlife experience. Where else can you go swimming and clubbing in the same locale? The Frauenbadi, for instance, reemerges at dusk as the livelyBarfussbar (barefoot bar). It fosters a serene, tranquil environment where guests can enjoy live entertainment or partake in literature readings, adding a cultured touch to their night.
At the Oberer Letten lido, Pier West takes the reins, drawing in younger patrons who come to enjoy its laid-back atmosphere while indulging in the exquisite food from the neighboringPrimitivo restaurant. The Unterer Letten, meanwhile, offers a unique experience by screening films for a fortnight every summer; it provides the perfect setting for a night under the stars.
For those seeking a more secluded experience, Rimini Bar - the nocturnal embodiment of Flussbad Schanzengraben- is a must visit. The men-only lido is ensconced by ancient city fortifications adorned with ivy, with towering trees providing shade that lends a deep turquoise glow to the water. At dusk, it is transformed into a mesmerising landscape adorned with fairy lights, throw rugs, and floor cushions, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere for indulging in leisurely drinks and mouthwatering treats.
As I delve into Zürich's vibrant urban scene, I find myself drawn to its unconventional side, its own version of the wild west. Rimini Bar sets the stage for a lively Saturday night, but my curiosity takes me further to the suburb of Langstrasse. Having endured a decline spurred by the demise of local industry in the 1980s, this residential district, originally built as a haven for migrant workers in the late 19th century, now embraces diversity with over 140 nationalities calling it home. What truly sets Langstrasse apart is its current wave of gentrification, breathing new life into the neighborhood and establishing it as the liveliest and most eclectic community in the city.
While Langstrasse is still visibly marked by the presence of a red-light industry, surpassing the likes of Hamburg and Amsterdam, its true essence lies in the rich tapestry of cultures that reside within its borders. This unique blend creates an atmosphere that epitomizes Zürich's cosmopolitan spirit. The suburb's transformation showcases the city's commitment to preserving its historical heritage while embracing progress, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic experience in the heart of Zürich.
Langstrasse's slightly shabby but pleasant streets throng with restaurants serving cuisine from all over the world and bars that range from traditional to fashion-forward (arthouse cinemas Xenix and Riffraff both have buzzing bars), all charging significantly less toe-curling prices than in the city centre. Its hipster hub is Josefstrasse and the neighbouring streets – where pedestrianised blocks become informal piazzas by night – are lined with cool, quirky bars and stylish but unpretentious eateries. Alfresco dining and drinking, sometimes with live music, take over the area, subsiding after midnight when people head home or to a club, of which Zürich boasts the largest number per capita in Europe.
Beyond Langstrasse lies Zürich West, a former industrial zone that's in the process of a bold transformation. In Zürich's boom industrial years in the first half of the 20th century, turbine manufacturer Escher Wyss owned this 17-hectare plot, and so daunting is the scale of its broad thoroughfares, colossal railway bridges and monumental factory shells that only in the last few years has the city been ready to mount a concerted effort to reclaim, reinvent and integrate the area.
Rimini Bar
While the plan is for boho-luxe loft-style living and versatile creative workspaces to gradually build new residential and professional communities here, for the visitor the main draws are the site's imposing topography and the imaginative uses being made of its unique features. The Schiffbauhalle, a vast ship-building hall, has been handsomely converted into a theatre, jazz club and the highly regarded LaSalle restaurant. The Viadukt project has brought together 60 independent, design-skewed retailers in repurposed railway arches, while a nearby column of well-worn shipping containers is the flagship store of Freitag, a local brand which makes achingly hip bags and accessories from recycled industrial materials. Meanwhile, the move to Zürich West of Eva Presenhuber's cutting-edge contemporary art gallery is seen by the art world as a significant seal of approval. But atmosphere? While the area positively reeks of exciting potential and there's no shortage of smart bistros and bars to visit of an evening, for now chances are you'll have the place pretty much to yourself.
Lured by the sounds of an open-air indie-rock gig, I keep on walking, crossing the Limmat to Wipkinger Park, and decide to wind up my night at a free mini-festival where a couple of thousand people are dancing by the stage or sitting by the river, sipping caipirinhas from the pop-up bar and smoking unusually fragrant cigarettes.
Wandering back towards town at 1am, I discover another niche community for whom Zürich West is already very much up and running. Studiedly discreet, the entrances to this year's fiercest up-all-night clubs for devotees of Zürich's beloved minimal techno – Cabaret, Zukunft and Hive – are starting to harbour queues of excited party kids resplendent in weekend finery. And although I'm quite old enough to know better, my night out is back on. Heidi-nism – it's catching.
Swiss (0845 601 0956, swiss.com) has returns from Heathrow to Zürich from £115, Manchester from £138 and Edinburgh from £168. Hotel Greulich (+41 43 243 4243, greulich.ch), has doubles from 306 Swiss francs (£240) room only, and the Helvetia (+41 44 297 9998, hotel-helvetia.ch) has doubles from £170 room only. For further information, see zuerich.com